Diving the Thistlegorm

The Thistlegorm was built by Joseph Thompson & Sons of Sunderland and launched in June 1940. She was 126.5m in length and displaced 4,898 gross tonnes. Powered by a triple-expansion, 3 cylinder steam engine that generated a very comfortable 365 nominal horsepower. She was one of a number of “Thistle” ships owned and operated by the Albyn Line. With her construction being part funded by the British Government, however, she was destined for “War” duties from the moment she was launched.

A few years ago, I was visiting the Red Sea for the very first time and, with a most successful indoctrination into the delights of some outstanding shipwrecks already behind me, I found myself contemplating my very first visit to the Thistlegorm. This was long-overdue and I was wondering whether or not any shipwreck could live up to such a reputation.

My Diving Guide was called Ali Baba – a man who has been deaf since birth but, who can lip-read in five languages. Ali Baba is an exceptionally fine Diving Guide and Instructor with a great sense of humour. In a world where some Guides often make things chaotic for the novice, his one outstanding quality is that he cares!

As the boat was positioned above the Thistlegorm, Ali Baba was the first person into the water – taking a stout rope all the way down to the anchor chains at the Bows while the Skipper kept “way” on the boat.

Once we were secure, the engines were switched off and in we went. We followed the rope halfway down before crossing to the Bridge just as soon as it came into view.

Below these, in the main hold itself, we swam right into the hold, over the tops of many more vehicles – still parked as though, even now, they were waiting to be unloaded. Behind each cab, we found three motorcycles where they had been stowed for the sea passage. With the powerful modelling lights from twin strobes illuminating this incredible scene, it suddenly became all too obvious why I had also read so many “downbeat” articles about this single shipwreck.

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